Sonamarg, meaning Meadow of Gold, is where the Kashmir Great Lakes trek kicks off. If you're traveling with Bikat Adventures, make sure to catch the transport from Dal Gate No. 1 in Srinagar by 12 PM. If you're going on your own, aim to reach Sonamarg by 3-4 PM. Even though you only need to report to the base camp by 3 PM, it's a good idea to arrive early to explore the area. Sonamarg is home to some famous peaks and glaciers of the Kashmir National Park. You can see peaks like Sirbal, Kolahoi, Amarnath, and Machoi alongside the Machoi Glacier from here.

The drive from Srinagar to Sonamarg is short but enjoyable. Once you leave the city, traffic disappears, and you're greeted with charming countryside views. About 30 kilometers into the drive, you'll start to see snow-capped mountains on the horizon, with vast grassy meadows stretching as far as the eye can see on both sides of the road. The sights on the way to Sonamarg are definitely worth a day trip from Srinagar! For accommodation, we'll set up camps for the night. After evening tea, we'll have a team introduction session followed by an early dinner.

Today, we start our trek at 9 am from Shitkadi. The trail has a mix of uphill and downhill sections, but it's not too steep. Along the way, there are plenty of places to refill your water bottles. We begin by following a wide path that leads away from the main road in Sonamarg. This path goes all the way down to the Sind River, where the starting point of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek is. As we start trekking from the trailhead, the path quickly goes uphill. After about ten minutes, we unexpectedly come to a stretch of green meadows with a view of Sonamarg town below. This marks the transition from civilization to the breathtaking beauty of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek!

Take a moment to enjoy the view here. The sunlight shining on the Sind River and the surrounding mountains creates a stunning scene. As we continue upwards, the view only gets better. After about 30 minutes, we reach the top of the meadow. Along the way, you'll see maple, pine, and silver birch trees scattered across the landscape. From here, it's a steady climb across colorful meadows with clear streams until we reach Nichnai, our campsite for the day!

We're getting an early start today, leaving camp at 8 a.m. Even though the trail isn't super steep, get ready for a long day of walking. The scenery changes a lot throughout the day – from wide open meadows to walking beside a river, and then a bit of climbing up the Nichnai pass followed by a steep downhill. We begin by walking alongside the river near the Nichnai Campsite. Keep an eye out for spots where you can cross the river. The Nichnai Pass is on the other side. Once we're across the river, keep following the river bank towards the Pass (you can see it from the campsite). The trail gradually goes uphill for about an hour until we reach the top of a ridge. But that's not the Pass yet – it's a bit further along the ridge.

The Nichnai Pass sits at 4,150 meters and is quite a sight, with snowy mountains on one side and rising land on the other, almost like walking through a tunnel. After reaching the top of the Pass, we'll head downhill quickly on rocky ground to the meadows below. You'll notice colorful flowers scattered around. A new river starts from the Pass, and there are lots of trails stretching into the distance. Pick one of these trails and keep walking. On one side, there are snowy mountains, and on the other, barren, rugged faces of the mountains. The contrast between them, along with the dewy grass and flowers, makes this meadow walk one of the best on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek. Our campsite for the day is about two hours away, after crossing another river. It's not far from Vishansar Lake, famous for its stunning blue waters, with Kishansar Lake nearby too. Once you see them, you'll be mesmerized!

If the weather condition is bad, then we will use the buffer day which can be used to explore the lakes & acclimatize. The decision to use the buffer will solely be taken by the trek leader.

Today's trek involves a tough two-hour climb followed by a steep two-hour descent, then an easy walk through meadows. There will be plenty of places to refill your water bottles along the way. We start by climbing a narrow ridge near Kishansar lake. It takes about an hour and a half to reach the top. Halfway up, you get an amazing view of Kishansar and Vishansar lakes together!

Once we're at the top, it's an hour of steep downhill walking. Then, the trail opens up into a sunny valley with mountains on both sides. The meadows here are super colorful, with bright red, yellow, purple, and blue flowers popping up among the green grass. After that tough climb, it's tempting to just lie down and take a nap! Beyond this meadow is Gadsar Lake. Gadsar Lake has stunning blue water and is the cleanest of all the alpine lakes because it's not visited as much. Most people visit Vishansar and Kishansar lakes as day trips from Sonamarg, or they trek from Naranag to Gangabal. Gadsar is harder to reach because it's at the highest point of the trek. Our campsite is an hour and a half away from Gadsar Lake, near an Indian Army camp. They'll check and record all our original ID cards there.

The gradient for the day is mostly moderate barring the first one and half hours of steep ascent. Post that, it is a level walk all the way up to the next campsite. The landscape on today’s trail stands in sharp contrast to the river valleys we have been trekking through till now. The terrain is rugged, desolate and captivating in its isolation. Meadows are scant and are marked by scattered patches of white flowers. Boulders and rocky terrain dominate the landscape with an occasional brook cutting through them.

We will be crossing an army camp today as well where our original ID cards will be collected, checked and recorded before letting us cross. Rolling grasslands once again take over the terrain beyond the army camp. Ten minutes away lay the first of the Satsar Lakes. Satsar is actually a group of seven inter-connected lakes situated in a narrow alpine valley stretching north to south. The lakes drain out into the Wangath Nallah which is a tributary of the Sindh. Big and picturesque in its greenery and backdrop of the mountains, we will be setting up camp here for the day.

We start by following the trail from the Satsar Campsite, which is exciting because it's full of big boulders. Many trekkers find themselves crawling from one boulder to the next for fun, but watch out for loose rocks that could make you slip. Past these boulders is the biggest of the Satsar Lakes. Then, the trail goes downhill for about half an hour until we reach some ridge lines running across the mountains. It's time to climb again, and this ascent is steep and rocky, lasting about three and a half hours.

But the view from the top of this ridge makes it all worth it. You'll see the Gangabal and Nandakol lakes nestled in the valley below, with mist and fog adding to the dramatic scenery. Our campsite will be by the banks of Gangabal Lake. It's a long way down from the ridge to the campsite. Unlike the other campsites, you'll notice more people and tents here because Gangabal and Nandakol are famous for trout fishing. Nandakol Lake is stunning, with a glacier hanging on the slopes of Harmukh Peak feeding it. Watching the light and clouds play on the glacier is mesmerizing!

After setting up camp at Nandakol, take some time to explore Gangabal Lake. It's just a short walk and a river crossing away from the campsite. Gangabal is quieter and more peaceful than Nandakol, with clear water near the banks revealing colorful pebbles. A mountain looms over it, with a glacier at its base feeding the lake. It's a lovely walk along the banks.

Watch your toes and knees on the trail today because, as you have guessed it, we will be descending to the Naranag road head which is where our trek comes to an end. The distance is long and the trail gets steep at the end. From the Gangabal campsite walk along the ridgeline that runs downstream towards the trees. It takes about an hour to reach the treeline. Continue walking along its fringe. For the first 7 kms or so, you don’t really lose altitude. There are gentle ascents followed by flat walks on lush grassy meadows.

You also begin to notice the beginning of civilization on the way. A hut or two dot the landscape and makes you wonder what it would be like to live there. Once you cross the 7km mark, the trail begins descending sharply. The track is mostly muddy and runs under a cover of pine trees. One or two kilometres into the descent, Naranag appears in sight but it is still a long way to go. Expect to reach Naranag by afternoon. Our vehicles to Srinagar will be waiting there. We should be in Srinagar by half past 6 in the evening. If you are planning to travel out of Srinagar the same day, ensure you book your transport that leaves the city post 9 to account for any delays on the way.